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How YOU Should Be Cutting Plywood
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How YOU Should Be Cutting Plywood
#Cutting #Plywood
“Bent’s Woodworking & More”
In this video I show you the process that I go through to break down plywood and achieving perfectly square cuts every time.
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Another method for FRP
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I'm glad I kept watching, I figured it was a Festool centric video, great info on work flow. I learned something about panel cutting workflow I can use with my unistrut / track clamp bare bones panel cutting system ! Great video as always, thanks !
I am intrigued by the fence you use (10:36) it does not look like a UJK. What brand is it?
How many people have a track saw with a 8’ plus track? Probably not many.
When I was framing houses an such we would use that factory edge, I learned very fast when I got into this type of carpentry that factory edge is no good..and I learned fast to mark your reference edge, so easy to lose that lol…
Hi, this is a great video some newb like starting out. I have a question, I noticed that you use your table saw to mill your rip down to the required size, how will you be milling down to actually size your crosscut? or if your fence and stop and track allow for "exact" and repeatable cuts?
How do you deal with ripping a base cabinet that is supposed to be 24" deep (nomial) when most saw don't have that capacity. For instance the new festool saw (that I want to xmas only has a 12" capacity I belive?)
This is very basic video, which is not a bad thing, but I believe the title of the video is misleading, 'cause I went through it to the end just to realize I learned nothing. I thought you'd explain something a bit more advanced, like how to get crisp edges, different blades, types of plywood to use or something along those lines. My advice, change the title of the video to avoid so far 363 thumbs down.
“It is easy, you just need to be able to do a perfect 90d”, sorry to say, but if you have to do a perfect 90d on a large size cabinet without good tools, it is not easy at all. Just like you said in the video, it took you a lot of time to setup something that works for you. In addition, you have your own workbench that is not moving, it helps a lot to get the things done in a controlled way
So for myself, my table saw can't rip 30 inches. Am I basically hooped for getting nice square panels?
I do more cuts in a week than you’ve done in that insulation board in a year and a half. You’re breathing that insulation in.
What was that ruler you used to set the guide rail for the first cut
Simple question from beginner … you seem to be cutting strait onto work bench for cross cuts but I see no score marks
Best way to cross cut the short side? (last side of the board was not demonstrated)
Thank you, GREAT video! Wish I watched it last week before building 3 cabinets and having to sand every edge to square.
I could see modding the crosscut fixture by adding an air cylider or something to pop the track up so there's no reaching across. Bunch of ways would work.
Why cut twice. Make your first cut down the middle and then you'll have 2 pieces with a reference edge.
Love the way you explain things! Clear, concise and just the right level of detail. Cheers!
I really like this video but one thing bothers me. If you have your parallel guides dialed in, why do you need to oversize the cut? Seems like extra work. If you cut the factory edge off and then make your first rip, they should be dead parallel, then you square up the end, cut to length and you are done. My parallel guides are dialed into some insane accuracy, I forget the number, but after the 5 cut test it was so small I couldn't believe it. I would 100% trust that my second rip was parallel to my previous one.
How I wish I had seems this years ago. One of the first things I did was make a jig for the leg assemblies for the workbench in my non-woodworking shop. Cut 1 edge, cut second edge “perpendicular” to that first edge, cut a third edge “perpendicular” to that second edge… you can see where this is going. Needless to say the leg assemblies are not quite square. The bench works but I’ve never put the planned drawers in because the openings aren’t square.
Clearly marking the reference edges helps a lot. “Known good” edges and corners make everything come out right. Marking on the back/non-visible side of the wood is a good habit too. A lot of plywood has a good side and a “meh” side so make your marks on the “meh” side.
Just finished making my MFT table. Want to add a fence like you have in this video. Have looked, can’t find one like yours. Could you, please, disclose your source? Thanks
I do this on a leftover piece of 3/4" flooring plywood, cheap plastic saw horses and a Makita track saw all day in my driveway. With great results.
I know! Score ply with marking knife, set and sharpen your panel saw for crosscut, have good support underneath, get cutting. Sharpen and set up plane, plane down to score line. Worked perfectly for me in 1980s
Love your videos. This one, in my opinion missed the mark. You should have done a full size sheet using Jason Bent's method. Also, congrats on you completing your military career! Thank you for your service.
Works as advertised!
Hey buddy, I'm new to your channel. What is that pink mat you have underneath the plywood?
That was probably the best explanation on breaking down a sheet of plywood I have ever seen. Thank You so Much
Sounds process, but the explanation and demonstration was even better! Thanks for sharing.
How is the “reference edge” any different than each new edge you create with each rip cut?
Dude…I wasn't paying attention for a minute and missed a cross cut step. I was like, "where's his track?" Then outta nowhere…SHAZAAM…it folded down across your work. I gotta get one of those tables, or diy it, just for that fine feature!
It should be noted that with Cutlist Organizer, unless you pay $15-$25 a month, you can't change the "Optimization Priority". I assume this affects the cutlist to permit doing all the rip cuts first as you suggest. Otherwise, when it's left on the "Least wasted area" setting, it's going to mix your rip and crosscuts (not allowing you to do all your rip cuts first).
You specify that you will make your final width cut at the table saw. Why? Is your table saw just that much more precise? Does it allow you to be a little bit more carefree with the track saw and just be careful at your final cut? Does it cut more cleanly? Anything else? Or just habit?
Asking because my table saw, while quite precise, doesn't have nearly as good dust collection as the track saw, and plywood is particularly nasty, even moreso when trimming small pieces…
Great videos and content! My question is if the factory edge is not straight and since your referenceing your pocket square off of the factory edge, how can you be sure that first cut edge is straight?